LetLetLet ~ Warplanes
Let Let Let - Warplanes => Aircraft Modeling => Topic started by: draken35 on August 19, 2018, 03:16:14 PM
-
The Renard 31 was the only aircraft 100% Belgian made that participated in combat to all the 18 days campaign of 1940.
Frrom just released the kit. Short run but at first sight, a nice one!
-
Not common subject, great :-ok
-
Yes, looks really nice!!
-
It was a very nice aircraft... Love that bird!
-
I just love these exotic birds, waiting for the build !
-
Serious work begins :))
I have the best documentation possible for what concerns the Renard 31...
-
...The book is simply a must to have. Checking the drawings included and the description of the cockpit interior, I read that the seat of the observer doesn't have a backseat. So, I will replace the seat provided by Frrom by a new one made from scratch (with Evergreen) as you can see on the photos...
Why no backseat? Simply because uit was more easy without it for the observer to pivot between the radio and the machinegun...
-
fantastic !
-
Thank you ;)
-
Back on the Renard 31: I've glued the seatbelts of the pilot seat; and used some Mr Surfacer 500 into the fuselage. The observer seat is placed; but I'm actually awaiting infos from friends of the Brussels Air Museum for what concerns the seatbelts of that seat: same than the pilot? How are they fixed?
On the other hand, I received infos for the fuselage interior: it must be painted in grey color because the aluminium dope color of the origin was overpainted in grey to avoid that the eyes of the crews were blinded with the sun reflexion...
I'm also awaiting infos for what concerns the instrument panels: are they still alu, or also overpainted in grey?
Hope to have answers soon... ;)
-
Do you have any archive photo of this instrument panel?
-
Yes, there are photos in the book but I don't know if the aluminium color was kept at the time of WWII...
-
I have received the infos I was looking for!
So the observer seat is now equiped with seatbelt. In fact, seatbelt was the same than the one of the pilot.
For the instrument panel, not sure it was left in aluminium - but not sure it was overpainted in gray!
So, I will work logically: if the interior was overpainted in grey to avoid to the crew to be blinded by sun reflexion, it's logical tio paint the instrument panel in grey...
Little progress: mr Surfacer sanded; the little gap between the top and bottom parts of the wing filled with Perfect Putty (you apply putty, use a q-tip with water and that's all...) and, of course, observer seat completed
-
So there is from now reference about grey color :)
-
Yes. It's an excellent information
-
Today I've removed the last little parts from sprue; sanding them also. Now I have to work on the propeller, to correct some little default... Not a terrible work to do ;)
-
Relaaaaxxxxx :))
-
good !
-
Thank you!
-
Airbrushing primer revealed some mould lines to be removed: on the leather of the cockpit ans on the little parts. It was a long sanding phase; but result is good.
I've also filled the joins on the radiator with Perfect Putty and, with the same putty, corrected the propeller bosse.
-
A lot of tiny work
-
Tiny for sure but necessary ;)
-
lot of work mate ! keep up the good job !
-
Thank you mate!
-
Priority is given to the Dornier 27, but I will continue to work on the Renard 31...
The seats and the part coming between the two cockpits are prepaired for wood paint: first, base of Tamiya XF-60
-
good !
-
Thank you ;)
-
First I have masked the observer seat, then airbrushed light grey (Gunze H325) on the elements of the cockpit interior: as previously said, crewmen asked that the alu color of the interior was repainted in grey due to the reflection of light.
Then I removed the masking tape and applied generously Mars Brown oil paint. After 1/4 hour, I removed the paint with a brush, slowly, patiently... Result sounds good. Now I have to paint seatbelts and details...
-
Seatnbelts is of French type?
-
Looks similar indeed...
-
Looks nice !
-
Thank you!
Little work but that required some attention: the seatbelts are painted... And some other cockpit details
-
Seat now get in highlight!!!
-
Yes but of course work is not finished yet...
-
good !
-
I did not paint the instruments of the instrument panels: better was to use an aequous black pencil.
Then some chipping and some parts of the cockpit interior are glued together
-
Aequous black pencil? This is still possible to find? We have this in far past
-
Yes, you can find those pencils in artistic specialized shops
-
Pébéo gloss varnish airbrushed; then Tamiya Black Panel Liner
-
Ooohhhh... this remind me that I have to gloss coat Spitfire interior I built in moment
-
Last sitting before Christmas...
Pébéo matt varnish then pastels and finally a drop of Klir for the instrument glasses...
-
Enough for this year, I guess ;)
-
Probably...
-
Cockpit closed. Looks good... :-love
-
:-clap :-clap :-clap
-
😉
-
Nice!
-
Thank you my friend
-
Today I've fixed some parts. I've also checked how the tail was fitting: not so good (probably due to excess of sanding). So I've added a little part of Evergreen and put some cyano on the fixed part of the tail. Tomorrow I will sand that drop of cyano when dry; then some putty will be needed on the fuselage, around the wheel legs and just in front of the tail...
-
Minor but important details ;)
-
Yes indeed, and the Renard will be splendid when finished
-
Little work once again, but good one with the tail.
First, I've reinforced the mobile part of the rudder with a metal part, to give more strenght when I will glue the mobile part of the tail to the fixed one.
Then, the little photoetch part PP5 was to be placed on the tail... But even if tiny, the part would have created a space between the mobile and fixed parts... So, with a razor blade I made an emplacement on the mobile part: that's perfect now, and strenghtened!
I have also placed a little bit of Evergreen under the fuselage. Probably due to an excess of sanding, there was a space between the radiator and the fuselage.
(NB: radiator just positioned for the photo; not glued yet...)
-
No idea about you but I enjoy in such tiny fittings :)
-
Me too my friend.
One of the interrests in our hobby...
-
Last sitting for 2018: Vallejo and Tamiya White putties... The reservoir is positioned and asked for putty too... And finally the tail is ready!
-
Excellent! Look like to be best build on forum in 2019 ;)
-
Excellent! Look like to be best build on forum in 2019 ;)
Thank you for your kind comment, but there will be lots of excellent builds in 2019 on this forum ;)
-
:-jump :-love :-razz :-ok
-
Good sitting today - Well, good for nerves control! :-green
I've placed some little parts. The little air intakes were opened by myself. The metal bar behind the radiator needs for some putty. I've also made a hole in the gun of the machinegun and I prepaired all the little photoetch parts... Not easy to work on those tiny parts because so tiny... But all came finely.
I've not glued the photoetched parts because I was tired and hands were shaking...
To be said that there is a photoetch part for the blades of the little propeller. But too difficult to place (you have to remove the plastic blades then to sand heavily the part); I preferred to sand the plastic blades to make them finer...
-
I first time met this generator long time ago, when I have to illustrate on interwar combat airplane, it have it too.
-
Yes, it is also present on the photos of the book about the Renard 31...
I finally managed to "build" the machinegun and the wing...
-
stunning mate !
-
Thank you. On hold actually, just the time to finish the Dornier
-
Back to the Renard 31!
I think it's better to begin the painting phase with the upper surfaces, because I will use some Vallejo metal paints for the lower surfaces and it's better to mask the khaki once painted.
So, masking phase... Not finished; next time the wing...
-
Few hours of mask work for few minutes of airbrushing... plastic modelers life ;)
-
Exactly 😂
-
yep, sad truth.... hours of masking/unmasking for 2.5 minutes of spraying.....
-
The primer revealed some defaults on the back of the fuselage and on the front of the wing; so I had to use Tamiya White Putty... Sanding done; now new primer to be applied...
-
Now look so smooth, after update this will be perfect :))
-
Hope so my friend.
Have forgotten to say that i've removed the photoetch parts of the undersurface of the wing... This will facilitate the forthcoming manipulations. Photoetch will be replaced just before painting the undersurfaces
-
nice corrections, will be great to see it painted
-
Thank you. I have put masks on the undersurfaces of the wing again; ready for a new primer...
-
White primer again... All is OK now
-
Paints lets go :))
-
Yessss!
-
lets go painting !
-
I've changed my mind for what concerns the way to go for painting the Renard...
Black polyurethane base (Vallejo) was applied before to use Vallejo metal paints - But first the fabric covered parts of the aircraft will be painted with Gunze H8 Silver: my goal is to give different nuances between the fabric parts and the metal parts.
Same process for the wing but I've encountered some problems during the paint phase and it was necessary to remove the paint and to do the work again...
-
Remember decades ago some articles in British magazine how to do metal and it is true, all who know material, know that it is not real metal from silver painted surfaces. I am sure your work will eb top at the very end.
-
Remember decades ago some articles in British magazine how to do metal and it is true, all who know material, know that it is not real metal from silver painted surfaces. I am sure your work will eb top at the very end.
Thank you my friend. First time I will try such mix of different renderings of metal but I think result will be good...
-
Nice to see that you pay attention on differences between the materials, good thinking mate !
-
Perfect method for this--doped fabric surfaces have a color all their own.
-
Thank you!
Gunze H8 airbrushed on the wing too...
-
Masking session today. Not finished yet...
I prepare for the surfaces to be painted with metal colors. Wing is ready but fuselage is in progress; I was too lazy to continue today...
-
Masking phase finished for the preparation before metal painting :))
-
Mmmm... this long awaiting moment to remove mask :))
-
Masking is tedious, removing it and seeing the results will be wonderful!!
-
Masks will not be removed after metal painting ; there will ne completed with masking the metal elements before painting the upper surfaces
-
Sure, just looking to the future!!!
-
Thank you Scott
-
Vallejo aluminium "metal" airbrushed in two sittings. I must say that after first one, I've had the envy to remove the paint...
Vallejo metals are very good but as all Vallejo paints, drying time is too short and you have to use retarder. Anyway my airbrush stopped to spray frequently and I had some blotches on the kit...
So, let all as it is, go for a walk and then come back...
Little sanding, airbrushing time shorter and that's good...
-
Nice metal shade :)
-
Yes, excellent result even if the paint is drying too fast for the airbrush...
-
Valleyo paints are demanding when you'r airbrushing them, you did a very nice job mate, like it a lot
-
Thank you!
I have some problems trying to make brushed aluminium: I've tried with AK Xtreme Metal Steel but the paint reacted with the Vallejo one... I've to remove the paint of one engine panel before to re-do the work but with another Vallejo paint...
-
Xtreme must goes first...
-
Xtreme must goes first...
Yes, I confirm...
-
Today, quietly, I've removed the paint on the panel to be corrected. I used a little brush from Tamiya just humected with a little bit of methanol
-
It is good now?
-
It is good now?
Not yet; I didn't painted it today. Black base tomorrow... maybe...
-
As said yesterday: black base today :))
I've also airbrushed black base on two spare parts that will be used to test different method for brushed aluminium: I will try using a spons but also a toothpick and different paints (acrylics of course!)
-
When things are definitively turning bad... :-/
Aluminium airbrushed. Panel was nice but when removing the masks... The panel under the one repainted let the paint go away with the mask...
OK. I'm zen... :-paper
Best way to go is to remove ALL the paint on the aircraft and to restart all the painting process. I've removed all the masks and will remove the paint but I will wait a moment before to do that. Acharnement is not the solution; better to go for a walk, to let a week or two and them to be back for work!
I will win the struggle...
-
:-dal :-dal :-dal
-
:-dal :-dal :-dal
The paint too thick at that location maybe... No other idea of the reason why because it's the only location where the paint was removed by the masking tape...
-
Maybe to try any other which can be applied by brush?
-
Step away for a time, then return and defeat the problem!
-
I was particularily zen today; so I've removed the paint (sanding + methanol) of all the nose of the aircraft. I've also seen that some putty will be needed on the upper side of the nose; and minor corrections in the Gunze H8.
I'm confident! :))
-
Fast and furious fueled by Zen :))
-
looks good !
-
;-)
-
Putty...
-
Sanding done. Looks good...
-
Like new
-
Good!
-
Thank you my friends
-
well done !
-
Thank you my friend
-
Minor corrections done with Gunze H8 before to re-paint the nose.
Inspecting the parts I saw a default on the propeller; so I removed the paint; used putty and sanded the propeller bosse again...
-
And will be perfect at the very end ;)
-
Hope so my friend...
-
Forward progress!!
-
;)
-
The work of the day: masking (again...)
-
Looks great mate !
-
Thank you my friend
-
Acrylic polyurethan black base (Vallejo) airbrushed.
I'm wondering if, next time, I will continue to use Vallejo or AK for metal paints...
-
Hope all will be fine... at least we are in this hobby to enjoy and relax ;)
-
Never surrender 😉
-
Vallejo Aluminium metal color airbrushed. Pressure 2 bars and retarder used.
I have also made different trials (on Spitfire wings...) for the mottling on the aluminium; finally the best result is obtained with an old brush and Game Colors Gun Metal...
-
Insomnia can be helpful for a modeller, to find some time for light work...
Brushed aluminium done, with diluted Gun Metal from Game Colors, damped with an old brush. I've also used AK True Metal for brass.
-
Step by step and this turn into real beauty :-love great about insomnia, I am not able to work at night, I am daylight creature :-/
-
Thank you my friend.
Honestly I would have preferred to sleep...
-
At least you didn't waste the time, the results are great!
-
looks better and better every time !
-
Thank you!
Yesterday I've airbrushed Vallejo metal "Silver"; some photos reveals a different nuance on some elements. Hope the difference will be visible...
And today the only work I've done in the workbench was to mask that silver color...
Painting of the upper surfaces will begin soon!!!
-
White base for upper surfaces - helpful for homogenisation...
-
Gunze H80 airbrushed
-
Insomnia again last night...
So I was gone to the workbench and removed the masking tape. Result looks good and, this time, no problem with Vallejo metal paints.
I constated I've forgotten to paint the windshields; I made that today and also the machinegun (Metalic black; Gunze H28)
-
Definitely you work perfect under dictate of insomnia :))
-
As it seems, yes... 😄
-
Early this morning I've painted the exhausts (not so easy I must say; used a 3/0 paintbrush and lot of attention); the base of the machinegun and the tyres
-
Wonderful results in engine exhaust!!!
-
Thank you my friend
-
Yes, those turned out wonderful, steady hand!
-
Thank you Scott!
First work this morning: gloss varnish (Pébéo)
-
...And this afternoon, first decal setting session :))
Lower surface of the wing and left (port) side of the fuselage.
Decals are thin but fragile. Anyway, once in place they are very nice and conform to reliefs
-
Finally!!!
-
All coming together!
-
This morning: all decals are in place :))
-
Bravo :-clap :-clap :-clap
-
Thank you my friend ;)
-
looks great !
-
Thank you
-
This morning I've airbrushed gloss varnish again, to seal the decals.
I've taken no photo; you cannot see the difference with the last ones... :-green
-
Those last days I've checked my doc and especially the book "La saga du Renard 31" to look on the photos how the paint of the real aircrafts was chipped... I was surprised because there were very, very few chipping: paint was really smooth and uniform. So, I've been precautionous for that phase.
Then today, Tamiya Panel Liner black was applied...
-
:-clap :-clap :-clap
-
Thank you my friend ;)
-
Matt varnish airbrushed on upper surface and fabric covered with aluminium dope.
...Well, the result looks very good to me. I'm wondering if I will use pastels or not... I think that in the actual case it's not really necessary but I'm waiting a little bit before to take my decision
-
Well, be lazy and let it like this ;)
-
Further, these were maintained very cleanly it seems, so extra work on your part is probably not necessary? It is a true beauty, that I can see!!
-
Well, I think both of you are right... 😉
-
Today I made numerous stages on the workbench for the Renard, because the last details to do were asking for sure hand and concentration...
The photos show you the progress during the day.
-
...And I finished the work... :-love
Not an easy kit, but result can be great as you can see...
-
:-clap :-clap :-clap
-
Thank you my friend ;)
-
Excellent work mate !
-
Thank you mate :)
-
Final presentation
-
excellent mate !
-
This is beautiful, all the time spent masking has paid off perfectly!
-
Thank you Scott :))
...But I've not finished yet with the Renard 31: I still have two other on the shelves, and the envy to build them quickly... One of whichg will be very special ;)
Opening the boxes: there is a part missing (part #A6) in one box... Non need to contact Frrom; I made it from scratch based on the one present in the second box!
-
Comparrison between the original part and the one scratched...
All the plastic parts are removed from sprue, for both kits
-
Show must go on :-razz :-obey :-jump
-
Yes ;-)
-
I just love scratch work, well done mate !
-
Thank you mate!
-
Hard work with one of the Renards...
First, for both kits I've added the position light (have forgotten to do that on my first kit; after the comments of a Belgian friend I've corrected that).
Then, the Renard 31 #31 will be represented as broken so I have surgery to do and some details to add...
-
Surgery... all right, kets see how it goes ;)
-
Excellent !
-
Thank you
-
My friend Dominique Jadoul convinced me to redo the work because it's possible to give more details on the interior; more than that some longerons have square section. So, I've removed what was done; sanded all the interior details and... Here is it for the starboard half fuselage. Port half fuselage to be done...
-
Extra work, but it will be worth it in the final product!
-
Thank you!
-
When it end, it will have more parts then original airplane :))
-
Maybe ;-)
-
Second half fuselage done; but also the tail.
This is funny work...
-
I am really excited to see the final product, my friend!! I have ideas in my mind of how you will display this one...… :)
-
:-clap
-
Thank you friends
-
fantastic work my friend !
-
Thank you my friend
-
Perfect plastic putty used on the tail.
Next phase will be to try to realise broken fabric...
-
Tiny foil I guess or maybe technology have been advanced in a meantime?
-
Tiny foil I guess or maybe technology have been advanced in a meantime?
I will try with Magic Sculpt or, as you say, tiny foil...
-
So, Magic Sculpt is used to make the base of the damaged fabric...
Some sanding and some finition still needed of course
-
Strong base at least ;)
-
Strong base at least ;)
Magic sculpt is a good product...
-
looks better and better every time !
-
Thank you! Lot of work remains to do but that will be a nice result... Hope so...
-
Well, lot of time passed since my last post...
I will resume soon the build, with other old but also new ones :))
Cockpit parts ready for primer
-
I found new infos about the pilot'seat : the one of the kit sounds dissimilar to the real one ; just awaiting for more details before to continue
-
Once again, history affect modeling :))
-
Once again, history affect modeling :))
Sure ! Better to know that now then after the kit finished...