LetLetLet ~ Warplanes

Since several of us have discussed NMF airplanes on Letipapa's Mystere IV A thread, we thought it would be nice to have a thread dedicated to ideas on how to make bare metal airplanes as realistic as we can. Everyone is invited to contribute all ideas as to preparation, materials, and methods that they use to get a proper finish for such airframes. Hopefully we can all learn from one another and increase the realism we all strive for.

I'll post this photo of a Falcon Vacuform F-89 that I built in the later 1980s as a starting point.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0625.jpg)
I used Alclad and a product that I can no longer remember  :-/ for the finish on this model. The 1/1 airplane I replicated was a rather tired machine and the skin was no longer the bright, polished finish of a new bird, hence the finish I was trying to achieve. I'll post some techniques and a few other photos later, but other duties call!

Scott

Wow! This is so good! :-eek :-eek :-eek :-obey :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap
It really has the gloomy shine:-wave

Surface inspection

First at all I would like to congratulate to our friend Second Air Force for starting this great subject and I have set it sticky for a some time as well it definitely worth it :-flo

In this installment I would like to give some different approach to the use of the metal paints and this is based on the experience of the local fellow modelers. It is well known that in great value to the quality final finish depend on the same surface preparation. But it happen that even if we give our best to fill all the gaps, seal all joints and smoothed surface as much as perfect, that when we start to paint it, that some of the omissions and errors become visible in that moment. There is colors which less show thats in-corrections and there is paint who show them better. Definitely the top one color to show surface imperfections is the silver! Any silver paint will show you on surface if you miss anything. So this mean that in other hand this could be also help in finding errors.

On suggestions of our forum friends Samuraj77 and tenk I have buy one non modeling products, this is Cosmos Lac High Heat silver spray. Its principal use is to cover up heating surfaces and pipes and it is very fast drying, surface excellent adhere properties and it could resist temperature up to 700C!. It come in can of 450 ml volume and as well it cost some under 5€ and it excellent coverage make it best buy.

It is used as thin coat spray over the surface and due to the high shine it shows excellent whole surface details and you can spot any trouble details, including of bad surface shaping (this could happen when try to correct surface shape with filler). I recommend that, if you spot any trouble, to fine sand it, recommended sand paper is 1500 of 1500 grit, and sand down area and correct it with the way need for it.

Sample build for that method is Lightning:

http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/2009/12/28/eduard-lightning-f-mk-1a/

Cheers :-wave

See, I've already learned about a new product!  :-ok Keep the ideas coming, folks.

I apologize for not yet doing anything with this thread. I've been trying to figure out how not to bore everyone or tell y'all stuff that you already know all too well. :-blah :-blah :-blah

When I start a NMF project the first thing I have to do is plan. There are some kits out there that have so many flaws that the project would take years just to make the parts fit, much less to get a smooth enough finish for bare aluminum. The second consideration I make is the markings I want to replicate. My NMF methods require that I paint any anti-glare panels, radomes, deicer boots, etc. before the aluminum.

Once the planning and collecting of kit and other materials is done, the building process goes on as with any other kit with the exception of fixing ALL defects in the seams, panel lines, fit of turrets, canopies, etc. Quite often I've just sanded all the panel lines off (especially the raised kind) during the filling process and rescribed them lightly later.

For studying the quality of all my surfaces, and especially the seams, I use a grey lacquer auto body primer, dusted on with the airbrush in very light coats so as not to attack the plastic. I then use the red oxide auto primer and dust on another light coat, just enough to make the surface red. I use this as a "guide coat" to wet sand with 600 grit or so. All the flaws will show through as either high (grey) or low (red) primer. Sometimes I can go back with more spray coats of primer and wet sanding to fill the flaws, sometimes it takes some spot filler to correct the problem. Once I'm fully satisfied with the entire surface of the model I can move on to the final stage, applying the paint and aluminum.

More later,
Scott

Oh no! House is built from many bricks! You have give fine enough for this thread and during the time this will build up in great source of info. Just wait to see what other members do (for example Profa used some cosmetic tool to make outstanding metal surface!!!)...

 :-clap

Ok,

Here's how I apply Bare Metal foil. Sorry about the photo quality, and the foil I have is probably ten years old, so this is a poor representation of the process. As the foil ages on the backing paper it seems to become more fragile and tears easily when removing it. New sheets fresh from the hobby shop should give good results. I use "Chrome", not "Ultra Bright Chrome" because it is more representative of shiny alclad and conforms better. "Matte Aluminum" is good for alternating panel shades on relatively flat surfaces. I use Alclad or Testors Metalizer for various areas depending on shading, shape, etc.

First, and most important, is a perfect, glass smooth surface. Any seams, scratches, etc will really show up when the foil is smoothed out.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0635.jpg)

Next, use a metal straight edge and a BRAND NEW X-acto blade to cut a panel to roughly the size you require:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0636.jpg)

Now pick up a corner of the foil with the BRAND NEW blade and carefully peel it off the sheet:
[(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0637.jpg)

Apply the foil to the area you want to cover, being very careful not to fold or kink the foil in the process:
[(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0638.jpg)

Now smooth the foil carefully across the entire surface, and I use a fingernail to slowly insert the material into all panel lines:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0639.jpg)

This step is a bit more difficult on vacuform models due to the panel lines on vacuform being less distinct than on injected kits. If you're careful, you can use a flexible ruler to wrap around the fuselage in order to maintain straight panel lines. I use the fresh blade to trim down the panel lines on the kit and remove the material not needed:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0640.jpg)

Simply repeat this process to add panels across the airplane, being careful to smooth the foil with a soft cloth from time to time. In this example I used Chrome and Matte Aluminum to get the varying panel coloration:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0650.jpg)

If you aren't satisfied with a particular area, you can carefully remove the foil with a fingernail or soft tool. Clean off all adhesive that may remain before putting on the next sheet:


There you have it, one guy's way to do NMF aircraft. Practice makes perfect as in any hobby, but I've had good luck with this system. Three things to remember: Absolutely smooth surface; BRAND NEW X-acto blades; and fresh Bare Metal foil.

Here is a Fokker 100 done with the BareMetal method:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0021.jpg)

Scott

Excellent  :-clap :-clap :-clap
And the Fokker-100  :-love

Very informative  :-clap And this worth to highlight:

Three things to remember: Absolutely smooth surface; BRAND NEW X-acto blades; and fresh Bare Metal foil

I used to work on the full-sized version of that little fellow, in fact, on that actual tail number several times.

S

Ha! Great :-clap :-clap :-clap
I do not now do we have those metal foils her in Belgrade in the modeling shops, I should ask for that.
But until than, I am interested how to get slight differences just using the paint. I know that I can add some small amount of black or maybe white to make it darker or lighter, but does it work that way? :-think

May be I should experiment with few different Al colors? :-think

Letipapa,

I once used silver paint with a tiny touch of light grey in it to darken it. It did change shades a little bit but it seemed to lose the "metal" look in the process.

I have had good success with these Testors metal finishes. I don't know if you're able to buy any of these products in Europe, but they work really, really well. All of these products (except the "Silver" on the top left) are ready to airbrush right out of the bottle. You MUST use a perfectly clean airbrush and bottle with a screen on the pickup tube, and it will take several bottles of paint to do very large models. The sealer is recommended if you're going to mask over the paint, but I don't always use it as a final clear coat.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4698.jpg)

Here are two more products. The small bottle of Metalizer gives much the same results as the Testors products. The SNJ system is a bit different in that it consists of the spray on material and a bottle of actual aluminum powder that you apply and rub in to the surface to give the aluminum finish.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4699.jpg)

And my favorite, the BareMetal Foil.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4700.jpg)

Scott

Hey, Scott, thank you :-flo :-flo :-flo
There are Testors metalizers in the shops here and I think I'll try something with them. Only there is the fact that I already sprayed with auto lacquer (to see all mistakes), so I am thinking is the surface good enough. Anyway, there is a lot of sanding waiting me on Mystere. When I finish it, do I need to put something on before I use this metalizers.

For the rest of the products I do not think its easy to find in Belgrade, allthough it could be.
 :-wave

Auto lacquer should be a good sub-surface finish for the Testors products. I use lacquer auto body primers, both grey and red oxide, as the base for the Testors Metalizer Lacquer. If you spray the Metalizer directly onto bare plastic use a very light dusting coat first to "seal" the softer plastic from the Metalizer thinner. The Testors materials are all very "hot" and will etch plastic easily if you lay it on thickly. Don't ever spray Metalizer over enamel--it will lift the enamel just like an application of paint stripper. (I know from experience....... :-red)

It's actually quite hard to spray a thick coat of this paint as it is extremely thin and covers well. The fact that the coats should go on thin makes it very important to handle finished models with cloth gloves--the Metalizer can be affected by the oils in our skin and frequent handling. One of the good things about these products is that it is relatively easy to fix little problems by overspraying worn areas with a new coat and burnishing/polishing it to match the surrounding surface.

Scott

SNJ are among the first to appear on market many years ago. I have never use it but do have used Testors products. There is also some old products, not available today like a Liqui a Plate and Rub N Buff. Did anybody use them?

Cheers :-ok

I used Liqui-Plate on the vacuform F-89 I started this thread with. That was the product I couldn't remember the name of...... :-roll It worked pretty much the same as the other products as I recall all these years later. I still have the "How To" book that came with the Liqui-Plate and it is quite thorough. I don't think I used Rub N Buff but I do remember the name.

Scott

Thank you mate ;) I hope that I will soon have one plastic kit where I will demonstrate my way of metal finishes and add it to this subject.

Letipapa,

Here is a completed model (Horace Carswell's B-24J) that I used foil, Testors Metalizer, and Alclad on.

(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0033a.jpg)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0029.jpg)

The largest portion of the model is BareMetal Foil. The variation in panel shading is done by applying the foil with the grain in different directions. The vertical fins and many of the other compound curves are done with the spray-on products, using different shades for the variation. For example, the cowlings are entirely Testors Aluminum Plate but the nacelles are a combination of foil and paint. The wing trailing edge panels are also primariy painted on.

Scott

Scott- did you ever take a part in any model competition with this nice build metal kits? They are fascinating looking :-clap

I actually built that B-24 for part of a group project for the IPMS Nationals in Dallas, Texas a number of years ago. Our group built models of aircraft in which crewmen earned the Medal Of Honor. I've shown some of my airplane models over the years, including the vacuform F-89. The funny thing about the F-89 was that I finished it just before Monogram/Revell released their 1/48th Scorpion kit! :-bat

I used to show superdetailed NASCAR stock car models on a national level back in the 1990s but I've retired from that side of the hobby and come back to aircraft modeling in the past seven or eight years.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_0609.jpg)

Unfortunately I never get much modeling done! :-/

Scott

Windshield frame done in metal foil or SNJ? It look very realistic :-ok

Hi mates,  :-salut

Years ago I used Rub n'Buff but I find it's too white. Before Rub n'Buff I used Abt's aluminium powder, a french product which was issued in the late 1960s. This system was re-issued by SNJ...
Nowadays I simply use Humbrol's Metalcoat Polished Aluminium that I handbrush. After 30 minutes of drying I polish Metalcoat with Abt or SBJ aluminium powder. The rendering is amazing.

(http://i67.servimg.com/u/f67/10/07/63/16/100_3310.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=848&u=10076316)

(http://i67.servimg.com/u/f67/10/07/63/16/100_3311.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=849&u=10076316)

(http://i67.servimg.com/u/f67/10/07/63/16/100_3312.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=850&u=10076316)

Cheers,

Jicehem   :-wave :-wave

No.1, the windshield frame is part of the chrome tree on the Monogram convertible kit, so I can't take credit for that one!

Jicehem, that is beautiful. It's also exactly why I started this thread, so I could learn something!!! I thought that SNJ was originally a European invention and you confirmed my belief. That really seems to work great.

Scott

Another edition, this time from the Y1B-17 project:

More filing, filling, sanding, and priming brought out some more low and high spots on what I thought was a smooth surface.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4709.jpg)

Another coat of primer and some block sanding, and this was the result, better but the flaws will still show up badly with NMF:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4711.jpg)

Finally got a smooth contour on both sides of the forward fuselage on the fourth attempt. After cleaning up the window openings, scribing all the panel lines, and working on the interior these two halves will be ready to attach to the center section:
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4713.jpg)

I use a bit of "bad" foil to verify that all the flaws are no longer visible. This piece has been applied to several areas, accounting for the rough look of the surface. I use it as a guide to see that all my dimples and high spots are gone, or they'll show up on the finished product.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4719.jpg)

Scott

Hi mates,

Unfotunately, SNJ powders seem to not more exist...
Another rendering of polishing Metalcoat Polished Aluminium. You can also polish the Matt Aluminium for which the rendering will be less brillant.

http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/forum/makete-aviona-aircraft-modeling/f-100d-super-sabre-1314/

The following link shows my very beginning in NMF which consisted in Testor's spray aluminium lightly polished with aluminium powder :

http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/forum/makete-aviona-aircraft-modeling/f-100d-super-sabre/

Cheers,

Jicehem

Scott, that Horace Carswell's B-24J is amazing :-eek Impressive work; different shining of panels, wonderfull :-obey :-obey :-obey :-clap :-clap :-clap

Jicehem, metal glow on your Mirage has one special elegant, little dark tone. Very serious, remarkable. :-obey :-obey :-obey :-clap :-clap :-clap

Thank you both for sharing your experiences. :-flo :-wave

I have finally get one kit for the metal finish and I will place this part of build here :-wave

Great No1 :-ok

Lets continue with standard way of the metal surface finishing with some of the tips. In one of my last post in this thread I have said that I will use one Spitfire for the demo but in meantime I get one amazing kit of the Zlin aerobatic plane and as well it is made in shiny metal, I have decided to use this one.

Our friend Second Air Force have noted that smooth and clear surface is of the ultimate importance when going to do project like this. Metallic color have different properties then the other so if any error are present on surface, with metallic top coat, this error will be much focused. So first thing is to prepare surface.

First three images present assembly section of the Zlin kit, this is fuselage with wings ad the engine cowling. What you will definitely note is the gaps on some area and this will be problem. My approach to the filling of this area is specific and for the first coat I use liquid filler. We all know Gunze Sangyo and its excellent product Mr. Surfacer. For this operation I use 500 grit sample and apply it with hand brush all over the join lines of the kit as well some possible problematical areas. Question is- why liquid filler first?

Reason lay in the physical nature of the surfaces. You have to note that all gaps are small. Second thing is that there could also invisible layer of the dust. If you apply regular filler there, it is possible that dust will avoid the filler to contact with surface and this will result in weak surface cover and it will crack later during sanding. Even if you clean up with some fluid this area and make it clean before filler, you will have situation that filler will trap the micro balloons of air underneath and this will also cause problem during later sanding.

Best approach is to first apply liquid filler and it will goes into smallest holes and after it dry, you will make with easy regular filler coat and this will make perfect filler coat over the surface. My choice for filler is the Tamya... I am sure that many of you know for it.

The fourth image show the kit with coat of the liquid filler. After that I have add regular filler and sand it to the perfect possible shape. Is it perfect, this will be find in following step.

Next step is the spray of the liquid filler. I like to use spray can with Gunze Surfacer 1200 and I have coat all of the surface of the kit. Principal designation of this type of filler is to find all surface irregularity, cover all scratches and make good base for later painting.

Will be continued...

Very usefull topic lads

Absolutely! :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-ok

Just two images in this post. The first one show that some areas are sanded as well they show some surface imperfections. Most important is that model get canopy over it as well the same kit is under preparation to be painted. What I did not use is the few of the small parts as well they would be damaged during the polishing process so they will be fit at the very end. Another image show basic coat before aluminum spray- White Base, this is one of the great Gunze Sangyo product. It is very good coat for every paint and excellent for the metallic.

 :-wave

No.1,

Does the Gunze white allow you to paint lacquer-based finishes on top of it? I like the overall finish it gives and would like to try it on my project.

Scott

As I know it allow use of the enamel based paints but if need I can make some additional test, just let me know type of paints you use as well type of thinner.

To regret my bottles of the Testor polishing metalizers has expired and as well it is not easy here to get replacement so easy, I decide to use classic enamel based Testors based paint. This is very good series of paints and I know that many modelers prefer their use. Before I have coat the kit with this paint, which need no polishing, I have dry sand whole surface with sand paper of Swiss manufacturer SIA, which is excellent product. I use 1600 grit and it is excellent to remove any dust or any other agents which is merge to the surface. After smoothing of all surface I have spray paint. Result as well images of products are here.

 :-flo

No.1,

If the "thinner" has dried up in your Metalizer products but there is a lot of the solid pigment still in the bottom of the bottle you may be able to use lacquer thinner to re-suspend the pigment. I've been forced to use lacquer thinner to revive a couple of bottles with good success.

Scott

Good to know- thank you :-flo Only good thing in this case is that I have use material which is also available so this fit somehow to the topic.

I'm thinking of dusting off a 1/72 Tamiya P-47 that I started years ago so I can actually contribute to this thread. If only I knew where I stored it! :-think

Scott

 :-ok :-ok :-ok

I found my P-47 and it is raining all weekend, so I may get a start on this project tonight and tomorrow. :-jump

I'll be building the NMF airplane in the photo, a D that was assigned to Bruning Army Air Field in Nebraska as a training aircraft. Ellen and I have spent many hours walking on what remains of Bruning AAF so this model will be a connection to our home state. It's hard to see from the picture, but the Jugs have only two guns per wing for training purposes.

(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w117/2AF/IMG_4872.jpg)

Scott

This is interesting subject! What is the cowling color?

Insignia red cowling.

The most interesting thing about the markings on this P-47 is that the factory painted the national insignia on the fuselage too far aft to put the standard ETO squadron codes on. Notice that the forward bar of the insignia is not painted onto the intercooler exhaust doors but is completely aft of the doors. This pushed the aft bar so far back that no letter could be applied. The insignia was repainted on combat aircraft, I don't know if it was done in-theatre or at mod centers. I also don't know if all the factories applied them this way or not.

As I know this is not the first case of this offset markings position. This is what modeling making mo' interesting :-ok What is the serial on tail?

Y36 was a P-47D-20RA built at the new Republic plant at Evansville. The serial is 43-25372.

One interesting thing about the Thunderbolts assigned to Bruning was that they got a lot of "oddballs". They had Curtiss-built Gs and the second prototype of the bubbletop variant ended up as a trainer there.

Scott

Thank you for info  :-razz Here you are little support to your build ;)

Beautiful three-view, No.1!

I can't decide if the small red panel just behind the cowling is truly red or fresh olive-drab to match the rest of the anti-glare panel in the photo. I'm thinking it was a replacement part in green, but I may use the red as you've done it.

These training airplanes were flown very hard and the maintenance crews were faced with shortages of spare parts. The Base Historical Records tell of not being able to get parts and tires because priority went to the combat zones first, then CONUS training stations. Bruning nearly had to cease flying for a short time because no tailwheel tire inner tubes could be gotten.

No matter of what paint you are going to use, I am sure that build will be top one. By the way- did US use during the forties P-26 for training? I ask because I think that I have seen some of them on operational airfield and in fresh condition.

Sorry for off topic :(

I believe the P-26s were used in the very early part of the war for some training duties and as "personal" airplanes in a few cases. They were also used in maintenance training schools for a time and I've seen pictures of them in standard olive drab/neutral grey camouflage in a Chanute maintenance school hangar.

The Filipino air arm fought bravely with their P-26s against the Japanese in the early days of the Pacific war, also.

Scott

Thank you mate :-ok