LetLetLet ~ Warplanes
Let Let Let - Warplanes => Aircraft Modeling => Topic started by: draken35 on March 13, 2011, 04:20:08 PM
-
I received the kit from Eduard, for review and build on the forum. I must say the kit is impressive: really fine, and the forms and dimensions sounds extremely correct (see the upper wing of the kit placed on the plan from Windsock book).
So I've begun with the removing of the parts from the sprue, then some sanding. Actually I'm studying the placement of the haubans and marking their places on the wings, before to make any hole... It is to note that Eduard forgot, in the rigging diagrams, the haubans between the wing struts...
-
Some additional photos:
-
It look very correct on drawings :))
-
New modeling...Yeaaa :-tri
This will be great! :-flo
-
Yes Srecko, the dimensions are really correct, I'm impressed.
The kit will be an easy build, no doubt about that. But the rigging will be extremely hardful and difficult I think... Something totally different from the Albatroses and other Fokkers... Anyway, a good challenge for me!
-
Do you have Lycra?
-
If not, you'll get it ;)
As per rigging, I'd suggest You theaerodrome forum, there one guy did a magnificent job in 3D modelling of the rigging diagram for D.H.2...
Yep, Eduard looks great, I have same thing in 1/72, but don't ask me when I'll start...
-
Do you have Lycra?
Yes, I forgot to speak about lycra...
-
If not, you'll get it ;)
As per rigging, I'd suggest You theaerodrome forum, there one guy did a magnificent job in 3D modelling of the rigging diagram for D.H.2...
Yep, Eduard looks great, I have same thing in 1/72, but don't ask me when I'll start...
Thank you for the suggestion, I will take a look at that 3D modelling of the rigging...
-
To give "life" to the model...
The ailerons and the rudder are a little bit more "active" now ;)
-
Great job! :-clap
Looks much better! :-flo
-
Great action! Do you plan to put control stick in cockpit in angled position?
-
Great action! Do you plan to put control stick in cockpit in angled position?
I will try to do that, yes...
-
I must say this is something I'm going to watch closely. Y'all may get me to build a WWI machine with all these excellent threads to look at.
-
For the rigging:
http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=145540&page=1
-
The link for rigging is very useful. I've begun to make the holes: phase one is done except for the cockpit; phase two in progress (lower wing finished).
With this plane I will also give a try to the turnbuckles made by Bob's Buckles. Never tried before but seem to be good...
-
This is good product and give much advantage in work
-
I'm always preparing the rigging: holes in the upper wing and the fuselage.
-
I just think about that which airplane is worst or hardest for rigging?
-
I don't think the DH2 is the more complicated for rigging... But it's not an Albatros, for sure!!!
-
I've used those buckles, and are really good thing to use.
As for the most complicated - I'd say DH.2 is among more complicated, but some Voasin or HF would be really a mess...
-
This will be great and interesting :-love :-clap :-clap :-clap
May be, that Anthony Fokker's Spider (Spinne in Dutch) is one with pretty complicated riggs :-think
sources:
http://www.earlyaeroplanes.com/archive/1w/images/FokkerSpin_1911.jpg
http://www.wwi-models.org/IM/German/spinne-done-06.jpg
:-wave
-
Oh yes, this model is more complicated...
Well, holes, holes, holes: I'm near completion with that task; the remaining holes to do can be made later... Now preparing all the parts of the engine and the cockpit for painting. The seat was assembled with the photoetched elements: it's for sure a good amelioration compared to the plastic one.
-
I am sure that from this chaos of parts will be created masterpiece at the very end on build :-ok
-
Hehe...I share Srecko's opinion. :-ok :-clap
-
Thanks mates!
But I repeat, the build in itself will be easy, but rigging will be hard...
-
I have a headache thinking about the rigging and I'm far, far, away! :-eek Just last evening I strung the antenna wire on the Il 2 project and it made me think of this thread.
-
Pretty nice model, and knowing your work I have no doubt that it will turn up great. :-clap :-clap :-clap
-
Up until now this looks as we're used from you - tidy and nice - rest shall be in the same manner, I believe :-ok
To 2nd AF - if you think of building an WWI biplane, it would be the best if you start with Fokker D.VII - just 2 wires between fuselage and upper wing, and some control wires at the vertical and horisontal controls ;)
-
Thanks Profa! Like training wheels on a bicycle!!!!!! :-help :)
Honestly speaking, I built a Hawk SPAD XIII many, many years ago. It was actually rather fun to rig for a novice like me, but until I started on LetLetLet I didn't have a desire to build another biplane. Now I think I need a CR.32 or CR.42 to practice on! :-ok
-
Thank you for the kind comments!
Scott, for a CR42 there is a really nice one: Italeri 1/48 or 1/72 as you wish...
-
Scott, you won't miss with Italeri's CR.42, especially because there's no rigging, except Xs between interplane struts ;)
D.VII is much easier to rig, in my opinion...
-
You both have sold me. :-clap Now I won't hijack the thread any longer!
-
No problem, Scott; always interresting to speak about one of my favourite biplanes...
OK, onto the DH2: just sprayed today white primer. No photo taken; it's just white you know...
-
The most important thing is that you working on your projects!
Hardly wait to see progress. :-ok ;)
-
For the dope, I've used Gunze H85 as recommended by Eduard:
-
Cream surface look great :) Internal construction can be with easy hand brushed later ;)
-
:-clap
-
Thank you mates!
-
:-ok :-clap
-
To spare some time for the build, I've decided not to use oil paints for wood rendering. So, I've opted for airbrushing Vallejo Wood on the propeller ans the instrument panels. That color is brown/beige/yellow; I will follow in the next few days by a drybrush with Vallejo Woodgrain. I've previously used that technique, the result is excellent.
Sorry but no photo, my camera is inaccessible for a few days...
-
You can do the same effect with crayons ( colored pencils)!! Very fast method, god for interior decorating
-
You can do the same effect with crayons ( colored pencils)!! Very fast method, god for interior decorating
Yes mate, I fully agree because it's one of the method I'm using for my Albatroses plywood rendering.
But one problem is that Vallejo is a very fragile paint. There is a difference between drawing nerves in the wood and covering all the surface.
On the other hand, I previously used also Vallejo woodgrain drybrushed on Vallejo wood and the result is also great. So, I used woodgrain today and you will see photos of the result soon (for the week-end I hope): I'm particularily happy with the propeller...
-
...Forget to say that I've also panted the seatbelt. To have a tone difference with the color used for dope, I used for the seatbelt Mister Kit French beige.
-
I agree about the Vallejo, they are poor adhere to the surface, surface must be much prepared before using them.
-
Photos of my work: first, the seat and then the result obtained with a drybrush of Vallejo Woodgrain on a base of Vallejo Wood...
-
Nice work on seat ;)
-
Thank you mate, but not finished yet: must receive a wash...
-
Nice,nice...As always! :-clap You are true master of WWI planes! :-flo
-
Definitely have to give a try to this Vallejo woodgrain, seems as the easiest way to render wooden texture :-think
Looks really good! :-ok
-
Thank you Sall & Profa!
Profa, I agree that for me the Vallejo are of an easy use for wood rendering, but for dark wood only. If you wish light wood (like Albatros fuselage) then you can use Vallejo Wood + aequous pencils for nerves (I use Caran d'Ache Chestnut for that)
-
No, for that I use Vallejo Model Color dark flesh or some similar creamy shade for base (Vallejo flat flesh, base flesh, Humbrol 74, 103, 148), and then oil paint burnt umbra for texture itself...
For me until now the best way for acquiring dark wood was Hu74 as base and old Precision RLM26 brown as top coat (look at my Spad propeller and struts).
-
There are so many ways to paint plywood and wood... I will give a try with a flesh base!
Anyway, today I've worked on the propeller (used Citadel Colors Boltgun Metal); painted the structure elements of the cockpit interior in light gray (that is a little bit darker than showed under artificial light) and finished to remove all the parts needed by the deco I've chosen from the sprues...
-
Excellent work on propeller :-ok
-
Yea,look like a real! :-clap
-
Here's good picture in great resolution of lower fuselage, Gnome Monosoupape and propeller:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4614831088_fd954ba906_m.jpg)
original size at http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4614831088_abe490da47_o_d.jpg
More details on this photo, from Windsock datafile 48: A2542 from No 24 Squadron. Shot down on 16 October 1916 by Oswald Boelcke (34th victory). Pilot Lt. P. A. L. Byrne, DSO, KIA.
-
Thank you Profa; I own the Windsock Datafile about the DH2 and it's useful...
-
I have airbrushed in Vallejo Sky Grey some elements of the cockpit interior...
-
Yes :-tri
-
:-ok
-
Time to work on the engine. See the little photoetched part under the number "1" of that euro; then see where there are placed on the engine...
-
...Then the parts of the cockpit were airbrushed with gloss varnish.
The leather of the cockpit is represented with a base of "Marron Brown" from Vallejo.
-
But I'm particularily happy with my wood effect!!! The parts are just asking for an oil wash now...
-
:-obey :-obey
-
Simply stunning, everything :-ok including that giant Euro coin you have :-eek
-
including that giant Euro coin you have :-eek
You are absolutely right! :-eek :-eek
Splendid work,as always.We have already habit on your great work! :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap :-obey :-obey
-
Hey, who discovered that my 1 euro is a bigger one???
Thank you for your comments, mates!
-
Today I've airbrushed Pébéo matt varnish, and glued the seat and some other elements of the cockpit; some decals were also placed...
-
After an half hour, I used Tamiya white ("snow") pastel...
I'm particularily happy with the result I've obtained!!!
-
Finally, some cables. I used 0.05mm stainless steel, bought on a store in USA.
First, with a compass, I measured the lenght of each one needed and placed all to see if it's OK. Than, there were painted in Chaos Black (Citadel Colors).
I will glue it with PVC glue, or Gator glue.
-
You are right, this look great :-ok
-
Thank you Srecko!
-
Very nice! The bracing cables are a work of art in themselves.
-
Thank you Scott!
-
...And here is the result. I have begun to place the elements of the interior. After a "dry" fitting, I have corrected the seatbelts position, because they were a problem for the cables. Hope that all will be OK now...
-
Looking so good :) Please tell me, is it fuselage structure wooden color?
-
Looking so good :) Please tell me, is it fuselage structure wooden color?
Thank you mate!
No it's not wood color but the dope linen...
-
Thanks for info ;)
-
Good! :-ok
-
All the inside parts are placed and glued. Not so evident to align so many parts at the same time... But OK, it's done and here is the result.
-
Two more photos:
-
Crisp work mate :-ok
-
Yes, that looks beautiful.
-
I love when cockpit is busy. :-love
Good job,as always! :-clap :-clap :-clap
-
A little bit of putty - Even if a kit don't need for putty, I always use it for the junction of the halves of fuselage. It's a security to avoid problems AFTER painting.
Also, a full view of the interior...
-
Now painting and assembly of sections?
-
Now painting and assembly of sections?
Yes, it will be the next phase. Haubaning will be made as the last work and, as said by email, will surely be a looong work...
-
I was feeling good enough today to make a short sitting and to work a little bit on my DH2. Seems perheaps few work, but good one, with photoetched parts that will replace plastic ones...
-
Great look mate!
-
Thank you mate!
-
Nice work on PE parts :-ok waiting for progress :-jump
-
Thank you mate!
-
Nice,nice! :-ok
-
Thank you Sall!
-
Beautiful!
-
First step today: I corrected a big mistake I made in the cockpit!
The upper side of the interior was metal and no fabric; so it had to be painted in grey and not dope... I made the correction with a nr1 paintbrush and Vallejo Light Grey.
I simply cannot live with such mistakes under my eyes... :-red
-
This make our modeling more interesting ;)
-
The engine is finished: I had to struggle with some very tiny PE elements...
-
Engine looks great.Very nice work! :-clap :-clap
-
Thanks, mate. But it was not a piece of cake, the elements are soooo tiny...
-
Why on Earth did Roden do such a worse job in 1/32 than Eduard in 1/48?
Suppose that's why Eduard is Eduard, while Roden is Roden... :-think
Nevertheless, good work Daniel! :-ok
-
Thank you Profa! I understand what you mean with Roden, there is a big difference of quality with Eduard. Roden makes honnest job; Eduard makes jewels...
As I was zen this morning, I've continued the work with the PE...
-
Those PE have to be formed, I'm happy not to have drunk coffee before modeling today :-green
-
I finished with what was a very patient work, but what a jewel!!!
With the machinegun, Eduard did a fantastic job of detailing! I have chosen to glue all the elements before painting; that will be made with a paintbrush of course.
...And now, I'm drinking a good, strong coffee... :-wch
-
Good, strong coffee :-love :-razz
-
Bravo!!Very good job.Very,very good! :-clap :-clap Hope i will have your skill one day! :-obey
-
Bravo!!Very good job.Very,very good! :-clap :-clap Hope i will have your skill one day! :-obey
Thank you Sall! And yes, you will surely work better than me. There are no secret, it's the same for everybody: to learn, and to apply what you've learned...
-
OK, now fully ready for the painting phase! Tomorrow will be an "airbrush day"...
-
Low density sponge? Good idea for protection!
-
Low density sponge? Good idea for protection!
Yes, exactly! Easy to use, you cut bigger than needed and the sponge occupes all the space... It's the second time I use that technique; first time it was with my Flitzer and I was really satisfied. More than that, not so evodent to mask the rear of the fuselage of the DH2... But with the sponge, no problem at all...
-
Great idea! :-flo
It is very useful... ;)
-
The sponge idea is GENIUS! :-cool I've always folded a small amount of paper towel or toilet paper and stuffed it into cockpit and wheelwell openings but the sponge will seal much, much better.Thanks for that tip, friend.
Great to see your work!
Scott
-
Thank you, Scott!
-
White primer was airbrushed this morning
-
Full morning primering tiny things... :-flo
-
Well, it was REALLY NOT a good day to try to work on that DH2...
Preparing the paint for airbrushing ("Dope" = Gunze H85), my bottle of paint felt to the ground. I reacted quickly so loss of paint is not too important.
...Then, my mix of paint + thinner... Felt to the ground! A quick reaction limited the loss to half of the preparation...
Well, I decided to airbrush what remained of the mix, than to do -at least for today- other tasks than airbrushing...
Oh yes, and I have also to remove some of the PE elements, there were glued too quickly: first I will have to place cockade decals and only after, the PE...
-
Well,bad day for modeling on your side! :-roll
-
This also happen to me few times :(
-
In such cases, better not to insist... ;-)
-
As I will have to manipulate the painted zone, I've airbrushed gloss varnish on the dope this morning...
-
I have also airbrushed "full white" on the outside struts, that will be painted white/red
-
Even in that scale this is not much large parts, base is good cover as I can see so no problem with final coat later ;)
-
After the "White primer day", today was the "masking tape day"...
I have masked the underwings. As you can see, it remains a border that will be painted in the same color than the upper camo.
I used Tamiya masking tape except for the cockpit where it is Eduard mask.
-
Hard mask work must say
-
Yes, that work takes me two hours...
-
huh... that's why I love my paintbrush... ;)
-
I've airbrushed Gunze H309 (the reference given by Eduard). I like it; sounds good...
-
Yes :))
-
Outstanding job on that Airco!!!
I have to scratchbuild the interior of my Roden Öffag 253... Sometimes, just sometimes, I wish Roden would do things the way Eduard does...
Let us see how it comes together. Have you chosen the camo scheme so far?
-
Thank you!!!
Javier, PART made an excellent photoetch set for the Roden kits.
See here:
http://www.part.pl/s72/s72188.jpg
You can order here:
http://www.jadarhobby.waw.pl/index.php?language=en
For the DH2, I will do the 5967 (pilot: Saundby)
-
This PC-10 has just the right shade of brown for my taste, like it very much!
As for Part PE sets, they are really demanding, but give you great pleasure after installation. I would suggest it to you, Javier, just as well...
-
Nice job Daniel! :-clap
-
Thank you!
Again a masking phase, to prepare for the painting of grey. But first, a little bit of white to prevent the PC10 to be too visible under the grey.
-
Grey was airbrushed this afternoon; so I removed all the tapes. I'm pretty glad with the result, there are only few minor correction to do...
-
Nice teeth on the lower fuselage :-clap
-
Very nice result! :-clap :-clap
-
Very nice result.
I like it :-clap
-
Thank you!
Today I made the little but needed corrections to the pC10/dope paint. I used a toothpick with Tamiya thinner. The fact that the dope was protected by gloss varnish permitted to remove the excesses of PC10 without removing the dope...
-
So real! :-ok
-
This is hard job, I know :(
-
Ready for red color...
-
:))
-
...And here is the red!!!
-
:-ok :-razz
-
Next time I will paint the engine...
-
Very nice and tidy.
Well done
-
:-ok
-
Thank you again!
First stage of painting for the engine, with Vallejo colors:
First, Oily Steel with a drop of Glossy Black. Then, Oily Steel + Old Gold.
-
... and result is great :))
-
Thank you! Next phase I will use Citadel Colors Brown Ink and silver...
-
Citadel? Game colors? This will be interesting to see ;)
-
I like Citadel Colors, because their paints are very warmful.
And for what concerns inks, it's a good replacement solution for oil, to make washes or some weathering...
-
I like your engine!Looks so real! :-clap
-
Thank you Sall!
-
A little bit of Mithril Silver (Citadel) and a wash with Brown Ink (Citadel) that simulates perfectly the "pissing oil"...
The engine is finished now.
-
Washing day :)) :-ok
-
The engine is finished now.
...and is perfect sample :-clap
-
Thank you!!!
-
Engine + propeller...
-
Stunning!!!!!
-
Beautiful!!!
-
Thank you!!!
-
Well... this is regular skill level for LLL member :))
-
Looks so good! :-clap
-
Today little painting corrections on the "red-white" struts...
-
Well, some works today...
First, a wash on the propeller bosse with Citadel Brown Ink (you can see on the photo the corrected struts). I've also painted (paintbrush) the machinegun and the ammo's. I've finished the sitting with the wheels...
Actually all parts are painted. Next phase will be Pébéo Gloss varnish; then a wash; then I will glue the parts together... At last!
-
Very nice progress,and work! :-clap :-flo
-
Nice demarcations on struts and wheels! :-clap
-
Thank you!!!
-
As the machinegun will not be airbrushed with varnish (due to the glass), I've used for wash Citadel Brown Ink. And I've also corrected the paint of two little elements.
Now, ready for varnish!
-
So tiny,and so real... ;)
-
All parts are varnished with gloss Pébéo. Then, some details are painted in grey.
-
This work for sure is inspiration for some future project :-clap
-
Thank you mate!
My only problem is that I'm not a fast builder...
-
I've begun to place the decals. And here, I had a bad surprise...
That was not visible on the decal sheet, but the roundels of the fuselage had a little partial border of white. More than that, the white of all the roundels was not completely opaque; it is as if there was a problem when produced.
As I have a good reserve of WWI decals (a gift of Philippe jourdan), I searched in my stock for Americal Gryphon RAF cockades; but I discovered... A complete decal sheet of the first release of the DH2 Profipack! So Philippe, thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!
So, I have replaced the decals (I had to replace also the cockades of the wings, because a little difference in the blue color of the two decal sheets) and here is the actual situation...
-
You are so lucky! :-razz
And decals looks great mate! :-clap
-
Hhhhmmm- is this really problems? I am not sure that WW1 paints are opaque covering quality but your solution is fine ;)
-
Hhhhmmm- is this really problems? I am not sure that WW1 paints are opaque covering quality but your solution is fine ;)
The lack of opacity was not really a problem; but the partial white border was one... Anyway, there was a solution :)
-
God bless the reserve! :-ok
I also hate that out-of-register surprise, especially when there's no alternative :-wall
Looks nice now, though :-clap, waiting for weathering effects...
-
Thank you, Profa!
-
GOOD SAVE!
-
Decal seance today... Funny!
-
So many small decals, like on modern aircrafts ;)
-
:-clap :-clap :-clap
-
So many small decals, like on modern aircrafts ;)
Yes, good comparrison! I think I've placed +/- 50 decals today...
-
Yesterday I constated I was missing a detail... So today I corrected that.
First photo is not a snow cristal, just a propeller with masking tape... :-green
...And the second one is the result! I've used Oily Steel from Vallejo.
-
:-clap :-ok
-
Yes, it's a damned nice finition! ;)
-
It looks so cool! :-cool
-
Thank you Sall!
The decals are now sealed by a new Gloss Varnish cote...
The work with oil paint will begin soon...
-
Decals lay good. :-obey
I like how it looks! :-love :-clap :-clap :-clap
:-wave
-
Thank you Sall!
-
Today, oil wash. As always, I used "Wash Brown" from Abteilung 501...
-
As always,so god! ;)
-
Yep, it's much easier than mixing it every time you need it... On the other hand, the only thing I don't know to mix are colours, everything else is on a more approximative basis and therefore easier to make :)
-
I must say that "Wash Brown" is perfect for my taste... And, of course, the color remains constantly the same even if you need a second stage...
Today I've airbrushed matt varnish (Pébéo acrylic).
Of course, WWI aircraft can be represented glossy... But I prefer a matt finish because you must take into account that those aircraft became very fast "old" ones, due to fly conditions, UV, etc...
Now I have some paintbrush work for the cockpit, and then I will glue the parts together... At last!
As you can note, the sponge protected perfectly the cockpit...
And I airbrushed black mix on the turnbuckles...
-
So goooood! :)
-
This goes great mate!
-
You're not going to weather flying surfaces? That might as well bring to that worn look...
I don't mind, you might leave it as it is, looks great!
-
:-clap :-clap :-clap
-
Thank you all!
You're not going to weather flying surfaces? That might as well bring to that worn look...
I don't mind, you might leave it as it is, looks great!
Yes, I will weather flying surfaces but I will use pastels for that... And Citadel inks.
-
Pastels!
I've used a green pastel from Conté for the dark green, and white pastel from Tamiya for the grey and dope.
-
Good effect! Soft and nice ;)
-
:-ok
-
:-clap
-
Thank you!!! :)
-
For the actual phase (building & glueing), it's necessary to be absolutely zen. So it's a phase where I will progress slowly, working only the days I'm 200% relax...
With the DH2, Eduard made a real jewel but it's a kit asking for patience and attention.
Today I've placed the 4 central wing struts on the lower wing.
First, I've positioned them with a drop of Gator glue. That gived me the time to adjust the struts on the right position.
Then, after a few minutes, I positioned those struts on the upper wing. The Gator glue maintained the struts in place on the lower wing but permitting in the same time to position them correctly on the upper wing...
I let 1/2 hours in such a state, then removed the upper wing and the struts are now perfectly glued, in the correct position and angle.
Next step will be the 4 exterior wing struts... When? Just awaiting a new day of zenitude... ;)
-
This look great and most problems will come when you try to fit rear section to this main body. I suggest you to make some provisional tool which will hold this in place...
-
You're right, mate... ;)
-
You're right, mate... ;)
I did not have to say that above as well I am sure that you have consider some smart options for this structure. Sorry :(
-
You have much to work on this,to finish it...
But for now looks sooooo good,that i can't explain. :-clap :-clap
-
Thank you mate!
-
The pastels give a subtlety to the finish, nice work :) I have the 1:72 version, so I'm looking forward to seeing this completed.
-
Thank you!
To continue to work on the DH2, I'm simply waiting for some "zen" days... ;)
-
Draken35 this is absolutely fantastic and superb work. :-obey :-obey :-obey :-tri :-clap :-clap :-clap
:-wave
-
Thank you! :)
-
Trully amazing and very professional job indeed.I enjoyed every step of the construction.Well done pall.
I agree that some fading work must be done on the linen surfaces.
An easy and very reallistic effect would be some small touches with oils and fade them panel to panel by stroking them with a flat brush.Or even pastels,but with the fever of loosing them as time goes by,or leaving some fingerprints.You can seal them by blending them using some turpentine.A nice dusty effect.Dont forget also the engine grime and oils running towards the spine and the faded tail rudders from the fumes.Some chipping on the fuselage would be a nice touch too.
Please don't accept my piece of advice if you desire,this is only my personal taste,the model is yours,of course.
Well done again.
Z
-
Thank you for your comments, Zetman, they are helpful.
I'm afraid I'm actually stopped on this workbench. My meaning is not zen enough for th etime being, and that aircraft ask for a total zen attitude...
-
A good modeller knows when to stop when he feels that this must be done for his own reasons,and catch it up with later.Not to harry,give it a try when you are ready.But your skills in that job are very promissing.Good luck mate.
-
Thank you!